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In the mirror, I seem to have on huge golden pantaloons, perceptible only to me. Youngsters relax in a stone basin acting as sea nymphs, meanwhile nearby rests a chatting legume in a display case, beside a towering pile of bedding. This is the world of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), a leading nineteenth-century's widely adored storytellers. I'm visiting this Danish town, on the island of Funen in the southern region of this Nordic country, to explore the writer's enduring legacy in his birthplace a century and a half after his passing, and to discover a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

HC Andersens Hus is the local cultural center dedicated to the writer, incorporating his first home. An expert explains that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on the author's tales. The writer’s life was explored, but Thumbelina were absent. For visitors who visit the city seeking fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of Odense city centre, rerouting a major road, made it possible to reconsider how the renowned native could be commemorated. An international design contest gave the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the layout. The remarkable timber-clad museum with interlinked curving spaces debuted to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we avoid discussing the author, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with wit, sarcasm and outlook,” says the representative. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for explorers and for colossal creatures, it's created to make you feel small,” he explains, a goal accomplished by clever planting, playing with verticality, proportion and numerous twisting trails in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

He authored multiple autobiographies and often changed his story. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy fully; frequently the perspectives of his companions or excerpts of letters are shown to gently question the writer's personal account of incidents. “Andersen is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” notes the expert. The outcome is a compelling whirlwind tour of his personal story and art, mental approaches and favorite stories. This is thought-provoking and whimsical, for adults and youngsters, with a extra underground imaginary world, the fictional village, for the youngest visitors.

Visiting the Town

Back in the actual city, the compact town of this Danish city is picturesque, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings painted in cheerful shades. The writer's influence is ubiquitous: the street signals show the author with his iconic formal headwear, metal shoe prints provide a no-cost pedestrian route, and there’s a art walk too. Annually in August this focus reaches its height with the regular Andersen celebration, which honors the author’s legacy through visual arts, dance, stage shows and musical performances.

Recently, the week-long festival had hundreds of events, many were without charge. While visiting the city, I come across artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an Andersen lookalike sharing tales. I experience contemporary performances and observe an amazing evening show featuring acrobatic dancers coming down from the municipal structure and dangling from a mechanical arm. Upcoming events during the season are talks, family art workshops and, expanding the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s yearly wonder event.

Every excellent fairytale destinations need a palace, and the island features 123 castles and manor houses across the island

Pedaling Through History

Similar to other Danish regions, bikes are the best way to navigate in this town and a “bicycle route” winds through the city centre. Starting at the local hotel, I cycle to the complimentary waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a route around Stige Island, a small island joined by a bridge to the primary land. City residents have outdoor meals here after work, or enjoy a tranquil moment catching fish, water sports or swimming.

Returning to town, I visit the themed restaurant, where the menu is inspired by author-inspired concepts and stories. The literary work Denmark, My Native Land is featured at the restaurant, and proprietor the host recites passages, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. Such encounters repeated often in my visit, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it feels as though sharing tales is always available here.

Historic Estate Tours

Every excellent fairytale destinations need a palace, and this region contains 123 castles and estates throughout the region. Going on excursions from the city, I tour the historic fortress, Europe’s best-preserved historic fortress. While much of it are available for tours, Egeskov is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his wife, the princess. I ponder if she can feel a small legume through a mound of {mattresses