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I found with joy that the South Indian blend podi – a rubble of intensely spicy, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams starchy potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic cloves, peeled and grated
2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Tip into a sizable container with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Skewer the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.